Medlar fruit may be unknown to many today, but this small, unusual fruit has a rich history that stretches back to ancient times.
We planted medlar trees at Kilgraney over twenty years ago and we’ve enjoyed its unique flavour profile and culinary uses. Happily, medlars are making a surprising comeback, thanks to the passion and dedication of modern enthusiasts like our friend Jane Steward who founded Eastgate Larder. In this post, we’ll explore the origins of medlar fruit, its peculiar characteristics, its decline in popularity during the Victorian era, and its recent revival as a gourmet ingredient.
The medlar (Mespilus germanica) is native to southwest Asia and south-eastern Europe, particularly around the Black Sea region. It has been cultivated for over 3,000 years, making it one of the oldest cultivated fruits. The fruit was valued in ancient Greek and Roman cultures, where it was both consumed and praised for its medicinal properties.
Medlars spread across Europe, eventually finding their way into English gardens, where they became a prized winter fruit. They were mentioned in medieval English literature, with references appearing in works by Chaucer and Shakespeare. During these centuries, the medlar was valued not only for its unique taste but also for its importance as one of the few fruits available at the onset of winter.
Medlars are quite different from other fruits in appearance and flavour. They resemble a small, brown apple with a “puckered” top, leading to historical nicknames like “open-arse” in medieval England. Medlars are harvested in late autumn, but most varieties are only edible after they undergo a process called “bletting.” This process, which occurs after the fruit softens and ripens off the tree, brings out the medlar’s sweet, tangy flavour, often compared to spiced applesauce or a mild date.
Medlars are quite different from other fruits in appearance and flavour. They resemble a small, brown apple with a “puckered” top, leading to historical nicknames like “open-arse” in medieval England. Medlars are harvested in late autumn, but most varieties are only edible after they undergo a process called “bletting.” This process, which occurs after the fruit softens and ripens off the tree, brings out the medlar’s sweet, tangy flavour, often compared to spiced applesauce or a mild date.
Only one variety of medlar ripens directly on the tree. Known as ‘Persian,’‘Dutch,’or ‘Royal medlar’ reflecting the medlar’s ancient roots and widespread cultivation across Europe and Asia, this medlar variety is better known in Ireland and the UK as ‘Nottingham’ and softens on the tree and can be eaten straight from the branch. It’s a strange coincidency that I’m writing this blog from Nottinghamshire. The fruits are smaller and sweeter and a distinctively rich flavour and is also good for making jellies.
Growing medlars requires minimal care, as they’re hardy and resistant to many pests and diseases. They thrive in temperate climates and well-drained soil, making them ideal for growing in Ireland. Today, you’ll find medlars are not only grown as an orchard fruit but also as ornamental trees due to their attractive white blossoms in spring.
Despite its prominence in earlier centuries, the medlar began to fall out of favour during the Victorian era. The fruit’s unappealing appearance and the unusual bletting process may have contributed to this shift. The Victorians, who were focused on cultivating and celebrating new and exotic fruits like pineapples and bananas, began to regard medlars as old-fashioned and even somewhat vulgar.
Medlars slowly disappeared from mainstream cultivation and culinary use, relegated to rare mentions in literature and the occasional heirloom orchard. By the 20th century, medlars were almost forgotten, found only in specialty gardens or as curiosities. In recent years, there has been renewed interest in heritage fruits and traditional food preservation techniques, bringing medlars back into the spotlight. The fruit’s unique flavour, rich history, and versatility in cooking make it an attractive option for artisanal food producers and curious chefs. Medlars are now appreciated for their ability to be transformed into delicious jellies, jams, and even liqueurs.
One of the most notable contributors to the revival of medlars is down to Jane Steward, the founder of Eastgate Larder in Norfolk. Jane is a dedicated medlar enthusiast, growing medlars and producing a range of artisanal products made from fruit from her own trees, including her highly regarded medlar jelly. What began as a personal project quickly turned into a business dedicated to showcasing this forgotten fruit’s potential. Medlar jelly is great with cheese but it can also be used as a glaze for meats.
Jane has published a comprehensive guide to everything medlar. You’ll find out all about the history, cultivation and uses of medlar fruits including, medlar curd, vinegar, sticky toffee pudding, walnut loaf and even pickled medlars.
The medlar’s journey from ancient orchards to Victorian obscurity and its current revival as a specialty food highlights the power of tradition and innovation. Thanks to advocates like Jane Steward and the movement to revive heritage foods, medlars have found a new place on modern tables. Whether enjoyed as a homemade jelly, used in a creative recipe, or simply grown as a testament to history, medlars are a fruit worth rediscovering.
Interested in trying medlar jelly? Visit https://www.eastgatelarder.co.uk/ to learn more about Jane Steward’s work, explore her range of products, and perhaps find inspiration to bring this ancient fruit into your own kitchen. You’ll also find Jane on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/eastgatelarder
Finally, Jane’s book, ‘Medlars – Growing and Cooking’, published by Prospect Books, is available online at Easons and Kenny’s Bookstore. ISBN: 9781909248779. First published 01 April 2023.
